My Travel

Oslo, Day 3. Harbour and Vigelandsparken

No, day 3 is still not over! “And I just can’t get enough/ And I just can’t get enough.”

We took the tram (Oslo is the only city in Norway with trams, or trikken, by the way, and I think the last time I rode one was in Prague) to Aker Brygge, one of the most convenient points to get out at if you want to explore the square around the City Hall, as well as walk along the harbour by the Oslofjord. We walked along the right-hand side, if you face the fjord, with the still cloudless deep blue sky reflected in the water and the afternoon sun contributing to the impression that everyone around us was also on vacation, despite the fact that it was Wednesday. Fancier-looking restaurants filled with guests lined the promenade, along with ice-cream kiosks, and more attention-grabbing modern Oslo architecture popped up, in brick, glass and steel. We fantasized about what it must be like to live in an apartment with such a view and were enchanted with the observation point at the end of the walk, opening up to yet another breath-taking vista of the Oslofjord. Why is everything so beautiful?!

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To the left of the observation point (which turns out to be right by the Astrup Fearnley Museum of modern art, the cool building with the slanting roof) is a bathing area. Some are sitting on the sand, relaxing in the sun, but one guy in bright blue swimming shorts (yes, I have an eye for details) catches my attention. He’s quite tanned for this time of year and he’s the only one on the higher bit of wall clad so modestly. No one seems to mind or really notice, though. And like it’s the most natural thing in the world, he leaps in to the water, while his dog tensely watches. Just a refreshing dive. I pull my hat down more snugly over my ears and wonder about coming over here again in the summer.

After that we were ready for the next item on our Oslo list – Vigelandsparken. On to the tram again and past some very pretty houses. The park consists of five parts, all together combining 212 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland. Materials include bronze, granite and wrought iron. That intoxicating feeling of space and calm enveloped us once again as we entered through the main gate, also a work of art on its own, and proceeded along the bridge stretching ahead of us. The bridge was lined on both sides by numerous sculptures, and after viewing quite a few more than expressive works concentrating on the nude human body in the Munchmuseet earlier, I was unusually conscious of the fact that all these figures were also naked. The figures depicted men, women and children caught in active movement, interacting with each other, and we quickly discovered the best game in the place – imitate the poses and take pictures. Keep a lookout for the Angry Baby (how most of the visitors refer to it) on the left, or auf Deutsch The Angry Little Boy. Due to excessive instagramming on the go, my phone also decided to chill when we got to the park, but my friend very kindly lent me her’s after seeing me fidget. Vigeland’s sculptures are a source of endless thoughtful discussions. “What did he mean by this one? This is quite interesting… Wait, is he throwing the baby?”

Photo credit @juniperlu

Photo credit @juniperlu

A large fountain with more fascinating sculptures follows the bridge, and even if it’s obviously not turned on yet, it’s fun to walk on the edges and scrutinize the more mythical depictions in front of us. I’m enjoying the people theme, it makes me think and feel very absorbent of Oslo’s local flair.

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Some steps need to be mounted after the fountain, and we find ourselves on one of the most famous parts of Vigelandsparken, the monolith. 121 figures carved from stone silently tower above the park. They took 14 years to finish. Visitors sit on the steps surrounding the monolith, and once again some of the sculptures provoke a reaction best described as “Um…” Bottom line, though: the whole structure is mesmerizing.

Photo credit @juniperlu

Photo credit @juniperlu

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Photo credit @juniperlu

Photo credit @juniperlu

All this monolithic viewing required a meal of respectable proportions as well, so we settled down in Kaffistova to some traditional Norwegian food and a discount with the Oslo Pass. What a day.

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My Travel

Oslo, Day 1. Around Storgata

It was a good day to arrive in the Norwegian capital (which Oslo became in 1814). Clear, sunny and with 10 degrees Celsius backing us up. The sky looked like someone had painted an enormous glass bowl with the clearest shade of blue I had ever seen above my head, and turned it over to dome peacefully over the city. My fleeting worry about the snow we saw on our way from the airport evaporated as I took off my hat upon exiting the train. Still, March isn’t the warmest month and it does cool off as soon as the sun sets, so pack those gloves.

For a Monday it was pretty quiet both at Gardermoen and in the train station, though things are busier outside. Taller buildings of glass and steel rose around us, adorned with logos of familiar shops, H&M popping up in different corners. On our quest to find the Visitor Centre we ended up going around the station from the back, but it’s a short walk. A small red house, the Centre was tucked between the prominent Østbanehallen restaurant complex and the front side of the station. A short flight of steps had to be mounted, with suitcases, mais oui, BUT for every door you encountered there was a lovely big button labeled “Press to open”. I do love convenience.

A few minutes later we emerged with our Oslo Pass – thoroughly recommendable, as it includes both numerous discounts and unlimited use of public transport for the Pass duration period. Though, warning: if you buy tickets for a tour of the Opera building through the official Visit Oslo app, you’ll be charged fees which cover the 20% discount from the Pass. (Other than that, it was my first time purchasing something via an app, so thrilling.)

Finding our hotel proved simple, passing the entrance to the Folketeateret on the way, but more on that later. Quintessentially local 7-11 and Narvesen shops spilled from every corner, as did coffee shops, pizza places (like Norway’s Peppe Pizza), snack bars, fast-food venues and some very pleasant-looking cafés.

Walking back along Storgata suited my navigation tastes exactly, as it led us straight back to the train station, though before that you spot the beautiful Oslo Cathedral (Oslo Domkirke), where Norway’s Crown Prince Haakon married his wife Mette-Marit. Another useful landmark for finding your way around.

It quickly becomes obvious that it is indeed easy to walk around Oslo. Occasionally, snow and slush mixed with the generous amounts of gravel underfoot. We passed a pretty stretch full of pubs and cafés – the amusingly unavoidable TGI Fridays, as well as The Scotsman (discount offered with the Oslo Pass) and places promising “God Kaffe”. Everyone who passes us seems simply relaxed and content. Without even noticing, we found ourselves walking down the slightly sloping Karl Johans Gate  towards the stately streamlined Royal Palace – Det Kongelige Slott.

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Finished in 1848, the neoclassical building in creamy yellow and white is a calming, beautiful structure, surrounded by the Slottsparken, which makes for a lovely, quieter walk after the noisier street the palace faces. To the left of the main entrance stands a statue of Queen (Dronning) Maud, the first queen of independent Norway. She preceeds the Dronningparken part of the grounds.

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Around six o’clock in the evening we witnessed guards lining up outside their resting quarters to the right of the palace. The gate of the main palace entrance opened and a car was nearly blinding me with its headlights. After a few minutes, two cars exited and the guards played music. The first free performance could be ticked off the list.

The day ended with a generous bowl of hot chocolate and my phone battery dying due to the immediate instagramming.

 

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My Travel

Oslo, Day 1. Transport Ode

When I travel, every bit of the journey tends to become an experience I might talk about extensively, whether it’s miling around duty-free shops before boarding or noticing the absence of row 13 on a SAS aircraft. I feel like I haven’t been on a vacation in six months, which is not the case, but after some hard post New Year working, I am more than looking forward to this highly anticipated city break.

Oslo is a city that is green, excitingly urban, vibrant and relaxed in that special Norwegian way, all at the same time, eliciting enthusiastic praise from both guidebooks and visitors alike. These adjectives and snippets of information went through my mind as our captain announced that Oslo would soon be visible from the cabin windows.

My friend and I looked out eagerly to see a seemingly endless expanse of snow-covered mountains underneath a blue sky.

Photo credit @juniperlu

Photo credit @juniperlu

Pristinely white stretches followed, dotted with clusters of what were even from this height obviously recognizable Norwegian houses in dark red, brown and creamy white with triangular roofs. We spotted a road, and before we knew it, we had landed at Gardermoen Airport.

My trips are usually divided in to clear steps (I have spent a long time in Germany, after all, ja). The next one was catching the Flytoget (which I still pronounce like fly-to-get (something…)) express train to Oslo Central Station. The company has a very helpful video that shows you how to get to the train from the arrivals area at the airport, and it’s so incredibly positive that I wanted to hug the people who made it. The whole thing is as easy as it is presented. After exiting customs/ baggage claim, you turn right and head straight down the hall. Even if you forget this, there are immediately visible signs. One swipe of a credit card, and you proceed down to the train platform. There’s a screen just above the escalator that shows you your platform number and departure time, but, again, even if you forget to look, the first thing you see is another screen on the platform. Trains arrive every 10 minutes and the journey to the city center takes 19.

There was absolutely no way to get lost, and I was also heartened to read the train’s safety flyer (I always grab anything readable within reach): the safety philosophy is zero injuries. Not that I was expecting anything, but all this continuous consideration for passenger feelings was delightful. There were also two clearly visible power sockets below the window by our seats! Take that, Deutsche Bahn.

Getting somewhere from an airport in a new place is a particularly thought-consuming process for me, which is why I’ve devoted more than one paragraph simply to taking a train. Five stars to Oslo on the reducing travel anxiety front!

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Seen/Heard/Read

AquaDom: World’s Largest Free-Standing Aquarium

I recently posted about surfing in Munich Airport. It turns out there is another attention-grabbing water attraction in Germany that is built in to an urban space you might not think of immediately. Or rather, you might not think of building something shaped like a cylinder in the middle of a hotel. At first.

But here you go – presenting the AquaDom in the Radisson Blu Hotel in Berlin. 1,500 tropical fish swim around a cylinder containing 1 million litres of seawater, oblivious to being surrounded by a city. Some 100 rooms face the aquarium, according to the hotel, so you can literally spend an evening in Berlin gazing at Finding Nemo come to life. Proudly said to be “the world’s largest cylindrical aquarium”, the AquaDom is 25 meters high. It also has a built-in two-storey glass elevator. Now I’m not sure about going in there, but having this view from your room balcony is one interesting experience:

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Walks

Surfing in Munich Airport

One can surf directly in Munich Airport during the summer.

Wait, really? Yes, really.

This year saw Munich Airport’s Surf & Style event take place for the fifth time, from the end of July and through August. The Forum of the Munich Airport Center  houses a large pool displaying a permanent non-breaking wave. This pool was also the venue for this year’s European championship in Stationary Wave riding. Surfing a standing wave is also a competitive sport – another thing learned.

The attraction has become so popular since it’s opening that enthusiasts had to register in advance. But admission was free, equipment was provided, instructors were on hand and beginners or even non-surfers could come in the afternoons, getting 45-minute slots each.

An example of interesting, albeit at first unexpected, use of urban space, in particular a large international transportation hub. But it seems to be working and these surfers definitely felt at home in Munich Airport’s beach bubble.

 

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