My Travel

Oslo, Day 2. Ylvis

What would a visit to Oslo be without Norwegian comedy brother-duo Ylvis?

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Magnus, Vegard, Bård and Calle greeted us on a daily basis from posters as we passed the Folketeateret on our wanderings. The actual entrance to the theater is inside a lovely, spacious passage housing several restaurants, and the smell of delicious food would be one of the first things we’d register when we would pass through. It all became very familiar and people-watching by this pretty fountain, or just relaxing briefly with a snack wasn’t frowned upon.

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We had tickets to a live taping of the talkshow I kveld med YLVIS (Tonight with Ylvis), and the evening was particularly exciting as this was the last episode. We had a bite in the Burger Bar, with sweet potato fries and a delicious blue cheese dip for me – good preparation for the laughter and subsequent activities that followed the show. In an hour the faces of diners around us became familiar as well and I recognized many not only later in the theater, but even the next morning in the hotel. Many of them were (covertly) looking around, like us, possibly hoping to catch a glimpse of the Ylvis brothers, who are known popping up in various places around Oslo, the theater passage included.

Once the theater doors opened we poured in with the rest of the excited crowd – the building was beautiful inside. A long, layered glittering chandelier descended from the ceiling above a wide staircase, and the above hall with the bar was a harmonious mix of dark wood, plush seats and dim lighting. Once again that feeling of space – how do they do that everywhere? Every staff member, bartenders included, were wearing I kveld med YLVIS t-shirts. We settled by the bar with our drinks, chattering, when the bartender approached me and spoke in Norwegian. “I’m sorry?” I said politely. “I need to take your water glass, because they are going to use it in the studio,” she said, then, seeing the mingled surprise and excitement on my face, added the somewhat cryptic bit, “I’m not going to wash it.” I handed over my (still full) glass, she gave me a plastic one same as the rest of the population, and gave the original to a young guy also wearing an I kveld med YLVIS shirt.

We debated whether traces of my lipgloss would be visible on the glass, thus providing an exciting possible connection with the evening’s celebrities, but from where we were sitting it was impossible to tell. I do hope the glass did get washed, though.

A live band played on two balconies across from each other, and the guy signalling to us how to clap was doing a very good job, but the audience really didn’t need much encouragement. Finally, the lights dimmed, and the Ylvis brothers ran out on to the stage. After lots of YouTube videos, it was fantastic to see them in the flesh.

Before they even began interacting properly with the audience, which is a standard starting point of the show, a woman sitting a few rows away from the stage jumped up and began shouting something shrilly. She was quite short and I couldn’t make out what she was saying. However, Vegard and Bård leaned forward slightly, with concentrating looks on their faces, and after several attempts to understand her, it became clear what she was so desperate to get across: “I’M FROM THE UNITED STATES!” “Mah Gawd!” Bård responded immediately, getting the audience to clap with him. Another guy piped up with the same information and promptly got chastised by Bård: “You missed by 20 minutes!” After some more questions and politely acceping gifts being handed on the stage, Bård firmly declared this part of the show was over and it was all Norwegian now. Kudos, a brilliant and sharp bit of improv.

Despite not speaking Norwegian, the show was fast, snappy, fun and easy to follow, especially since Magnus, Vegard, Bård and Calle were all familiar to me, and my friend was a walking Ylvis encyclopedia. Any question you asked her about Ylvis, she had the answer. And thanks to loyal Ylvis fans, videos of the show and other stuff they do in Norwegian get translated in to English quickly. It was particularly interesting to see how a talk show was filmed, even more so when we watched the whole thing again on TV the following night, and spotted ourselves in the audience.

The show concluded with Calle, Vegard and Bård doing equally fantastic imitations of the lead singer of Norwegian dansband Ole Ivars, who was present to judge. They really couldn’t have gone out better (and the bus with Ole Ivars emblazoned on it finally became clear to me, as well as Bård’s cryptic Instagram post from earlier, but not being local, I’m allowed).

But the night wasn’t over yet. After some hanging around in the passage outside, watching the numbers of those waiting dwindle, the mother of one of the girls ran outside to check some apparent commotion. The daughter held her phone at the ready and I could feel all eyes focusing on her like a traffic light. Suddenly she got up, as did several others, and then we were all hurrying outside to square at the other end…where Magnus and Calle were taking pictures with excited fans (standing in line). “Thank you for coming,” Calle said in response to my thanks for a wonderful evening, as did Magnus, and they both took time to chat with us, despite the late hour, and it was all simply lovely.

After more waiting (those burgers were good!) we heard several girls gasp, “Bård!” and he appeared, but after one female fan shoved her selfie stick at his face with the force of Arnold Schwarzenegger on a good day, he gave a slight shake of the head and made a “Nuh-uh, dude” face, disappearing in to the bar next door. Laughing, we left, having definitely put “the right amount of pressure” on this very cool evening.

 

 

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My Travel

Oslo, Day 2. Akerselva and Grünerløkka

Like Hamburg, Oslo is a city that is closely connected to nature and water, the latter being especially pronounced. We could see the Akerselva river threading its way forward and it was along it that we set off on a new walk through the district Grünerløkka. Trees were still bare, but you could feel spring waiting just around the corner, and it was easy to imagine masses of green foliage among new apartment blocks and older buildings with graffiti on their walls. Contrasts along the Akerselva are a fact, and just like in the rest of Oslo, they seem natural, a fact you quickly accept and like. Nothing feels pushed out, intimidating or forced.

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The sound of rushing water as the Akerselva squeezes in to a narrow brook dashing over rocks or a full-grown waterfall is a constant companion during the walk.

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Joggers and parents with prams stroll everywhere, including construction sites, which somehow don’t obstruct, either the view or the walking process. It’s almost like the construction itself is polite – a regular part of Oslo’s developing urban landscape. Building doesn’t cut through nature in the city, it’s happening around it. The area around Akerselva used to be an industrial hub, with factories and mills which are now filled with new offices and companies, but the ultimately arresting architecture remains, as Grünerløkka has expanded to become much more than a working class district.

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Along the way you can walk over to the Mathallen, a food market hall. The first of its kind in Norway, it’s a former factory that now houses various shops selling delicious Norwegian food, which we, unfortunately, surveyed with full bellies.

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After quite a bit of walking uphill we approached the Hønse-Lovisas hus, dark red, small, charming and typically Norwegian. My friend had told me about it before we set off and we gratefully did justice to their waffles with jam and cream, while sitting outside in the sun and watching this waterfall, yet another example of the natural and the urban working well together.

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After four hours of walking, my excitement about discovering Oslo further was only mounting. I also brought back my first sunburn of the year, conveniently spread over my face. Pack the sunscreen.

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My Travel

Oslo, Day 1. Around Storgata

It was a good day to arrive in the Norwegian capital (which Oslo became in 1814). Clear, sunny and with 10 degrees Celsius backing us up. The sky looked like someone had painted an enormous glass bowl with the clearest shade of blue I had ever seen above my head, and turned it over to dome peacefully over the city. My fleeting worry about the snow we saw on our way from the airport evaporated as I took off my hat upon exiting the train. Still, March isn’t the warmest month and it does cool off as soon as the sun sets, so pack those gloves.

For a Monday it was pretty quiet both at Gardermoen and in the train station, though things are busier outside. Taller buildings of glass and steel rose around us, adorned with logos of familiar shops, H&M popping up in different corners. On our quest to find the Visitor Centre we ended up going around the station from the back, but it’s a short walk. A small red house, the Centre was tucked between the prominent Østbanehallen restaurant complex and the front side of the station. A short flight of steps had to be mounted, with suitcases, mais oui, BUT for every door you encountered there was a lovely big button labeled “Press to open”. I do love convenience.

A few minutes later we emerged with our Oslo Pass – thoroughly recommendable, as it includes both numerous discounts and unlimited use of public transport for the Pass duration period. Though, warning: if you buy tickets for a tour of the Opera building through the official Visit Oslo app, you’ll be charged fees which cover the 20% discount from the Pass. (Other than that, it was my first time purchasing something via an app, so thrilling.)

Finding our hotel proved simple, passing the entrance to the Folketeateret on the way, but more on that later. Quintessentially local 7-11 and Narvesen shops spilled from every corner, as did coffee shops, pizza places (like Norway’s Peppe Pizza), snack bars, fast-food venues and some very pleasant-looking cafés.

Walking back along Storgata suited my navigation tastes exactly, as it led us straight back to the train station, though before that you spot the beautiful Oslo Cathedral (Oslo Domkirke), where Norway’s Crown Prince Haakon married his wife Mette-Marit. Another useful landmark for finding your way around.

It quickly becomes obvious that it is indeed easy to walk around Oslo. Occasionally, snow and slush mixed with the generous amounts of gravel underfoot. We passed a pretty stretch full of pubs and cafés – the amusingly unavoidable TGI Fridays, as well as The Scotsman (discount offered with the Oslo Pass) and places promising “God Kaffe”. Everyone who passes us seems simply relaxed and content. Without even noticing, we found ourselves walking down the slightly sloping Karl Johans Gate  towards the stately streamlined Royal Palace – Det Kongelige Slott.

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Finished in 1848, the neoclassical building in creamy yellow and white is a calming, beautiful structure, surrounded by the Slottsparken, which makes for a lovely, quieter walk after the noisier street the palace faces. To the left of the main entrance stands a statue of Queen (Dronning) Maud, the first queen of independent Norway. She preceeds the Dronningparken part of the grounds.

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Around six o’clock in the evening we witnessed guards lining up outside their resting quarters to the right of the palace. The gate of the main palace entrance opened and a car was nearly blinding me with its headlights. After a few minutes, two cars exited and the guards played music. The first free performance could be ticked off the list.

The day ended with a generous bowl of hot chocolate and my phone battery dying due to the immediate instagramming.

 

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Oslo, Day 1. Transport Ode

When I travel, every bit of the journey tends to become an experience I might talk about extensively, whether it’s miling around duty-free shops before boarding or noticing the absence of row 13 on a SAS aircraft. I feel like I haven’t been on a vacation in six months, which is not the case, but after some hard post New Year working, I am more than looking forward to this highly anticipated city break.

Oslo is a city that is green, excitingly urban, vibrant and relaxed in that special Norwegian way, all at the same time, eliciting enthusiastic praise from both guidebooks and visitors alike. These adjectives and snippets of information went through my mind as our captain announced that Oslo would soon be visible from the cabin windows.

My friend and I looked out eagerly to see a seemingly endless expanse of snow-covered mountains underneath a blue sky.

Photo credit @juniperlu

Photo credit @juniperlu

Pristinely white stretches followed, dotted with clusters of what were even from this height obviously recognizable Norwegian houses in dark red, brown and creamy white with triangular roofs. We spotted a road, and before we knew it, we had landed at Gardermoen Airport.

My trips are usually divided in to clear steps (I have spent a long time in Germany, after all, ja). The next one was catching the Flytoget (which I still pronounce like fly-to-get (something…)) express train to Oslo Central Station. The company has a very helpful video that shows you how to get to the train from the arrivals area at the airport, and it’s so incredibly positive that I wanted to hug the people who made it. The whole thing is as easy as it is presented. After exiting customs/ baggage claim, you turn right and head straight down the hall. Even if you forget this, there are immediately visible signs. One swipe of a credit card, and you proceed down to the train platform. There’s a screen just above the escalator that shows you your platform number and departure time, but, again, even if you forget to look, the first thing you see is another screen on the platform. Trains arrive every 10 minutes and the journey to the city center takes 19.

There was absolutely no way to get lost, and I was also heartened to read the train’s safety flyer (I always grab anything readable within reach): the safety philosophy is zero injuries. Not that I was expecting anything, but all this continuous consideration for passenger feelings was delightful. There were also two clearly visible power sockets below the window by our seats! Take that, Deutsche Bahn.

Getting somewhere from an airport in a new place is a particularly thought-consuming process for me, which is why I’ve devoted more than one paragraph simply to taking a train. Five stars to Oslo on the reducing travel anxiety front!

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